For our expert, the art of tasting is above all an art of commitment. So it’s best to have your wits about you.
Our artistic elites have always been sympathetic to the notion of drunkenness. In a castrating or indifferent society, it embodied creative freedom, or better still, inspired it; sometimes even civil or non-civil religion encouraged it, imagining that it linked man and woman to God or the gods, the vine despite Noah being the two-sided symbol of both creature and divinity. Our medical elites have taken a dislike to it, making it a symbol of the slavery of addiction, inspiring in politicians a guilty terror if they do not repress it as a crime against the public health of which they claim to be the guarantor. If they had an ounce of intelligence,