There is always a certain amount of artifice when a taster picks out of the memory of the forty vintages he has seen – and the hundreds of fine bottles that have made him fall in love with the wines of Saint-Emilion – a dozen or so even more memorable wines. Apart from the quality of each of them, there are inevitably circumstances linked to moments in a lifetime, to encounters that have created bonds of friendship and to personal aesthetic and gustatory preferences. But I don’t think that the sometimes Cornelian choices I make in the following list will shock our readers.
CHÂTEAU AUSONE 1964 (AND EVERY VINTAGE SINCE 1985) I was lucky enough to meet Alain Vauthier in the late 1970s. Many journalists influenced by the local wine trade were unaware