Is there a universal taste of wine, an “oenologically perfect” style, in short a model to follow everywhere and in all times?
I was quite convinced of this postulate when I started my career as a journalist and wine taster, for a good reason. At that time, 80% of the wines were not up to the standard expected of them. The “p’tit ballon de Côtes” was small before it started resembling a Côtes, the magic potion of the great wines of Burgundy was called beet sugar, and the clarets were just recovering from the slap of the Judgement of Paris(1). So the roadmap to follow seemed obvious: