Burgundy, the dead end and the way out


The acute eye, forged by forty harvests in a row, is the indispensable witness of a disconcerting history. And it answers two relevant questions: “how did we get here?” and “How do we get out of this trap?” An explosive and exclusive monograph

WINE LOVERS of Burgundy know it only too well, never in the last three centuries has Burgundy been so adored, so prosperous and so anxious about a success that frightens it more than it delights it. The price of wines from the best terroirs is soaring, often twenty to thirty times more expensive than those from beautiful neighbouring terroirs, but unknown to rich merchants and speculators. The indiscriminate and violent vagaries of the climate, combined with greater rigour in the cultivation of the vine, have led to a drop in yields, that have returned to the level of recent centuries, which does not help matters. Trade allowances are becoming increasingly meagre, while the vineyards’ land value is reaching stratospheric heights, which is an obstacle to the transmission of family assets. It now takes a hundred or more harvests to pay off the purchase of a vineyard in a beautiful terroir,

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