China’s Jiangyu Ferment | Bottling dreams

China Jiang Yu’s story is one of passion and resilience. This self-taught talent, driven by a vision of crafting exceptional wines, transformed a small workshop into “Jiangyu Ferment,” a rising star in the Chinese wine scene. This is how he is bottling his dreams, one unique vintage at a time.

My first encounter with Jiang Yu occurred in the autumn of 2023. Bettane+Desseauve, invited by the local government, was touring the wine region of Yantai, Shandong. Shortly after visiting Domaine LongDai, a Rothschild family investment, our car arrived at a small, unassuming winery workshop. Grape variety names were etched on stones scattered near the entrance, a few flies buzzing lazily in the air. This was clearly a one-man operation. A shy, tanned young man of average height stood before us, seemingly preoccupied with the aromas around him. It was difficult to imagine that this individual, a former Changyu Winery salesperson, would soon impress us with his remarkable wines.

First hand encounter

“This is Jiang Yu,” announced Section Chief Kong, her voice brimming with admiration and affection for the young winemaker.

We entered the workshop, separated from the outside by glass and equipped with climate control. Neatly stacked oak barrels filled the space, many showing signs of age. Several large wooden vats also stood prominently. “I use quite a few old oak barrels,” Jiang Yu explained, “and some are made of Mongolian oak from China.”

“Jiang” in Chinese means “ginger,” and Jiang Yu’s wine label cleverly incorporates this, featuring a distinctive golden-yellow pattern. The back label displays comprehensive technical information about the wine, a unique approach that effectively tells the first chapter of the wine’s story, showcasing considerable ingenuity. Remarkably, Jiang Yu designed this label himself in his spare time. This is the story of a self-taught, undeniably talented Chinese winemaker.

Jiang Yu’s background is far removed from professional winemaking. He majored in English, a popular choice in China at the time. After graduation, he worked for an auto parts export company. In 2012, he joined Changyu, Shandong’s largest wine enterprise, as a salesperson. His exposure to wine ignited a passion, revealing a more exciting and fulfilling world. In 2015, Jiang Yu left Changyu, venturing into wine import and restaurant ownership, both of which ultimately failed. However, these experiences clarified his true calling. In 2019, he began studying for the WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) qualifications in Hong Kong. Perhaps inspired by a mentor or a pivotal book, the idea of creating his own wine took root. By the end of 2019, he had taken the plunge, and his initial efforts were met with enthusiastic praise.

Step by step, stone by stone

Within five years, Jiang Yu had gone from importing wine to selling his house to fund his winemaking dreams. Initially, he purchased grapes from other growers. Later, he acquired a small vineyard of less than a hectare. He cobbled together his winemaking operation, borrowing equipment and spaces, even renting clay pots and egg shaped fermentation vessels. Eventually, he established his own small corner of the wine world. Experimenting with Mongolian and foreign barrels, he produced his first vintage, achieving all this with minimal external support.

Jiang Yu’s winemaking style reflects his keen palate and clear vision. Leveraging the ripeness of Shandong’s white grapes, along with Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes sourced from Shangri-La, Yunnan, and transported in refrigerated containers, he quickly mastered the art of crafting exceptional wines. His Chardonnays possess a Burgundian elegance, while his Cabernet Sauvignons achieve a refined, cool-climate Pomerol style, even with relatively lower concentration. His 2022 Grechetto, reminiscent of “Beijing popsicles,” boasts a golden-yellow hue, an oily texture, and Gewürztraminer-like flavours with notes of ginger, cinnamon, and spices. The palate is savoury, smooth, and complex, with a lingering aftertaste and a hint of classic fino sherry oxidation. His Petit Manseng and Petit Verdot are equally captivating, promising to be stars in 2025.

Turning point

The global pandemic, beginning in 2020, seemed to have little impact on Jiang Yu’s progress. In 2021, he founded his own winery, contracting land to grow grapes and managing everything from planting to sales. He expanded his horizons beyond Yantai, venturing to Shangri-La to explore new possibilities. Constantly pushing beyond his comfort zone, he set ambitious goals, treating “Jiangyu Ferment” as a legacy, meticulously building and nurturing it. He was, quite literally, bottling his dreams, one step at a time.

In March 2024, in Chengdu, “Jiangyu Ferment” received the prestigious “Belle Surprise de l’année” award from Bettane+Desseauve. His Grechetto, 6000-Li Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon aged in Chinese Mongolian Oak Barrels, and Mist Chardonnay wines garnered unanimous praise.

At the 5th Chinese Wine Tasting in 2024, his Mist Chardonnay (Shandong), Cloud Chardonnay (Yunnan), “The Saved Petit Verdot,” and Petit Manseng dry white impressed us, earning numerous positive reviews. At the end of 2024, Jiang Yu travelled to Paris to participate in Le Grand Tasting at the Carrousel du Louvre, achieving further success. Desseauve jokingly suggested in a video that Jiang Yu had created his own “Hermitage” by blending Chardonnay from Yantai and Shangri-La.

Independent winemakers in China face considerable challenges, including sourcing high-quality grapes, navigating unpredictable hardware conditions, and managing sales. Jiang Yu has clearly seized a unique opportunity. It’s difficult to imagine him achieving this level of success a decade ago. His story highlights the evolving landscape of Chinese wine, a landscape becoming increasingly diverse and free.

Grand Tasting

PETIT MANSENG 2023 92 – 93/100 This Petit Manseng offers pure, typical fruit aromas of dried jackfruit, green mango, lime, and a hint of cool hay. It boasts excellent acidity and a balanced body. Despite some residual sugar, the wine maintains remarkable balance. Tiny bubbles from bottling are present but don’t detract from the overall quality. The long, lingering aftertaste confirms this as a very good Petit Manseng.

THE SAVED PETIT VERDOT 2021 93 – 94/100 This wine exhibits a deep, almost opaque ruby colour. The aroma, while rich and deep, shows a slight reduction, revealing abundant blackberry, blackcurrant, graphite, and nut notes, along with a subtle, non-dominant sweet Havana cigar scent. Fine-grained tannins and refreshing acidity create a mouthwatering sensation, like biting into a plum. The flavours linger on. We are looking forward to seeing its performance after ageing.

MIST CHARDONNAY 2023 91 – 92/100 This golden-yellow wine offers a rich, but not overly sweet, aroma of tropical fruits like grapefruit, honeydew melon, and pineapple, with subtle oak influence. The palate is clean and full-bodied, with noticeable acidity and a slightly bitter finish. While not a classic Chardonnay, its unique character is stunning.

CLOUD CHARDONNAY 2023 91 – 92/100 This light golden-yellow wine currently has some slight bubbles that should dissipate with time. The aroma is a classic blend of grape, grapefruit, apple, and pineapple, complemented by vanilla from oak ageing, honeysuckle, and mineral notes, creating an elegant and refined profile. The acidity provides structure, while nutty flavours emerge on the palate. The aftertaste is rich and complex.