Amongst the very many bottles that were tasted during the past year, some left the tasters with a lingering impression that they were tasting China’s ability to produce great fine wines. A short selection.
By Jia Yin Liu and Alexandra Rendall
AO YUN 2020 RED WINE The 2020 vintage of Ao Yun is impressive with its deep colour and complex aromas. The wine exudes red fruits, accompanied by layers of spices, cedar and tobacco. On the palate, the tannins are silky, the savoury taste is full of energy. The wine is grand with an international, serious style. Ao Yun, meaning “soaring above the clouds,” draws inspiration from the Himalayas where it was born. This wine comes from a high-altitude terroir at 2,600 metres, with unique geographical conditions giving it extraordinary quality. The estate covers 27 hectares, divided into 35 plots and further subdivided into over 700 micro-plots. The team meticulously manages each piece of land. They carefully control every batch during fermentation and ageing in the cellar. This precision explains why so many consider Ao Yun a masterpiece of craftsmanship.
From planting to winemaking, every step reflects respect for nature and the pursuit of ultimate quality.
CANAAN WINERY, CHAPTER AND VERSE RESERVE SYRAH 2019 RED WINE Deep and intense, with pure and rich varietal expression.Violet, black plum, herbs, and peppery spices rise from the glass. The wine shows a clear structure and a full body. It feels rounded on the palate while maintaining a noble, steady character. The tannins are fine, with a lively and natural ease. The style sits between the completely modern and traditional Syrah styles, making it undoubtedly a benchmark for Chinese Syrah. Rigorous soil testing and scientifically precise vineyard management plans, combined with over a decade of exploration and research, have led to the success of Canaan Winery’s “Chapter and Verse” series. The Reserve red wines are typically released after four to five years of bottle ageing. This 2019 vintage, just released, is already enjoyable and promises a long ageing potential. It is a perfect representation of the exceptional terroir and potential of the Huailai region.
JADE VINEYARD, JADE 2020 RESERVE MERLOT RED WINE Deep ruby in colour, with aromas of dried roses, mint, and enticing ripe red fruits. On the palate, there are notes of dark chocolate and classic garrigue, giving it an international flair. The wine is packed with detail, with a rounded body, outstanding freshness, and a concentrated, captivating presence. The silky tannins are elegant and balanced. The acidity and overall performance are reminiscent of the classic Merlot from Italy’s Super Tuscans. The finish is long, with moderate alcohol. The 2020 vintage of Jade Vineyard is the most stunning release following the single-varietal Merlot “Heshan.” It represents the ultimate expression of Merlot from the gravelly slopes of the Jinshan region in Ningxia. This is also the first wine in over a decade from Jade Vineyard to bear the winery’s name. Merlot is one of the most difficult grape varieties to craft with true nobility. It often risks being merely superficially appealing. Yet the two single-varietal Merlots by Jade Vineyard’s winemaker, Zhou Gong, defy that pattern. They impressed us with a rare and refined elegance.
