A wave of rosés

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Rosé has long since extended its empire beyond the borders of Provence. All the vineyards in our country have added colour to their palette of pleasures. The connoisseur will never know the whole story .

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CHAMPAGNE

Domaine Alexandre Bonnet, La Forêt 2018, rosé des Riceys Not a rosé Champagne, but a Champagne rosé to start with. The Pinot Noir from this Burgundy-style Champagne house leaves no one indifferent. Magnificent colour, fresh aromas of wild berries, vinosity on the palate, you can drink it in two or three years’ time, or leave it in your cellar for even more excitement. Just under 4,000 bottles, so you’d better hurry.

Abelé 1757, Brut Rosé Two hundred and sixty years of history have made this house a benchmark brand in the Champagne world. We are delighted to see its return to the forefront, supported by solid general and technical management. A fruity, lively, finely acidic wine with a fresh, elegant finish.

Ayala, Rosé Majeur Excellence, purity, uprightness: these are the fundamentals of this house, founded in Aÿ in 1860. Aesthetic champagnes, unctuous and noble, made for the finest gastronomy. Great colour, open and frank nose, we love the naturalness of this beautiful rosé.

De Sousa, Brut Rosé What luck that this house never does anything like the others. The family who run it stubbornly cultivate their difference and their unfailing humility. With a rare flair for wine, they offer this singular blend – 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir – which produces a fine, crisp rosé, made like a white wine. And just as well, it’s the speciality of this house in Avize.

Joseph Perrier, Esprit de Victoria 2010 This small house from Châlons-en-Champagne shines for the consistency of its chiselled champagnes, which are always harmonious and widely enjoyed as aperitifs. In this cuvée, a tribute to one of the queens of England, the capricious 2010 vintage expresses its savoury, gourmet character loud and clear. It’s a real treat, and it’s ready to drink now.

Laurent-Perrier, Cuvée Rosé Blood orange, wild red and black fruits, notes of clementine, mandarin, grenadine, great liquorice and peppery tannins, this rosé is in line with the house’s champagnes, always delicate and refined. In this category, which it developed very early on, the house remains a benchmark. Is there anything it can’t do?

Mumm, Le Rosé Mumm is one of the world’s most famous brands, with a classic, comprehensive range that has made great strides in recent vintages. Committed to excellence, Mumm offers this full-bodied, fruity rosé, perfect for a simple aperitif.

Lanson, Le Rosé The house of the cross is no novice when it comes to rosés. With its long experience of the colour and its current know-how, it has produced this superb, finely fruity champagne, with great freshness and exemplary balance. Further proof (if proof were needed) that Lanson is in the top league.

Moët & Chandon, Grand Vintage Rosé 2015 Under the impetus of its cellar master Benoît Gouez, the “grande maison” is asserting its universal values: fruitiness, freshness and the ability to age. Six years in the cellar have enabled this insider’s champagne to shine with its airy aromas of wild strawberries and spices, while at the same time displaying a great deal of deliciousness. Pure delight.

Palmer & Co, Rosé Réserve This house, with its ultra-modern facilities, has a serious approach that commands our admiration. It takes advantage of supplies from the best areas of the Reims mountain to produce straightforward champagnes. Raspberry, impeccably fresh and supple, this reserve is a model of its kind, produced from a unique pinot noir solera.

Pommery, Cuvée Louise Rosé 2004 The rosé version (and others) of this cuvée, a tribute to Louise Pommery, is a must-try. You can’t help but be moved by the purity of its notes, which evolve serenely into a complex register of black fruit, spices and undergrowth. Ideal harmony, rare elegance.

Rare, Rosé Millésime 2012 We can’t hide our boundless admiration for this rosé in the pantheon of our tasting memories for the category. Magnificent in its delicacy, bewitching in its fragrance, irresistible in its profound strength, in the image of the house and its new management, it takes everything in its stride. A pure marvel, already so close to perfection.

Ruinart, Dom Ruinart 2009 The elegance of this iconic cuvée is undoubtedly due to the high proportion of Chardonnays (85%), mainly from the Côte des Blancs. For its twenty-first anniversary, this charming rosé invites you into its salty, floral world. In short, a masterpiece. 250 euros Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne rosé 2011 The house’s most complex cuvée never ceases to impress. It recounts the magic of the great Pinot Noirs of Bouzy and Ambonnay. Black fruit, cherry, blackcurrant, rose, peony, grandiose undergrowth and black truffle aromas. Majestic and captivating, ready to defy the years.

Veuve Clicquot, Rosé Intense fruit, vinosity and depth, this beautiful rosé of great character shines through its complexity and persistence. The great success of this cuvée must be emphasised, given its affordability. A model for the region, the house is in dazzling form.

Veuve Fourny, Rosé Vinothèque MV15 The Fourny brothers have made this family-run business, based in Vertus, a reliable address for lovers of precise, vinous champagnes. This is the case with this vinothèque, made mainly from the 2015 vintage and supplemented by reserve wines aged in wood. High energy, unrivalled creaminess, this is lace.

RHONE VALLEY

Clos des Centenaires, La Bergerie 2022, costières-de-nîmes Luc Baudet’s remarkable work on his vineyard between land and sea, close to the ponds of the Camargue, is to be commended. On this impeccably tended estate, he chisels out the Grenache, his flagship grape variety, complemented in this fresh, mineral rosé by a little Cinsault and Mourvèdre. To drink or to keep.

Domaine Boisson, Côtes-du-Rhône 2022 Let’s (re)listen to episode one of our podcast Paroles de Vignes to hear Bruno Boisson, an engaging and talented winemaker, talk about his village of Cairanne. Everything about this estate is good, and this lovely rosé is smooth and charming, crisp and perfectly balanced. Great price.

Xavier Vignon, L’Esprit Français 2022, Côtes-de-Provence While the man’s vision and desire to innovate are fascinating, he never forgets that the essential is in the vineyard and the truth in the glass. Produced in collaboration with the master winemakers of Saint-Tropez, this singular rosé brings together more than 500 plots of vines to create a delicious blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan.

Dauvergne-Ranvier, Domaine des Muretins 2022, tavel François Dauvergne and Jean-François Ranvier are involved in their innovative wine trade, and have also embraced with open arms a project in Tavel with this estate. You won’t be disappointed by this fruity, mineral classic of the appellation, with a vinosity that is not excessive. Excellent value for money, as always.

Guigal, Château d’Aquéria 2022, tavel This first-rate estate, now under new management by the Guigal family, extends over a single block in the tavel and lirac appellations. Produced on the great Tavel terroir, 2022 has tremendous ageing potential. Good today, superb in ten years’ time.

Château Pesquié, Quintessence 2020, ventoux The Ventoux appellation would not be what it is today without the tremendous work of the Chaudière brothers. As visionary and committed winegrowers, they make their unique terroirs shine, including with this original and successful rosé, formal proof that Mourvèdre – the majority grape here – can make great rosés in the Rhône.

LANGUEDOC ET ROUSSILLON

Domaines Lorgeril, Château de Pennautier 2022Limited edition, cabardès What a job Nicolas and Miren de Lorgeril have done. Classic, consistent, with excellent freshness, the wines are all recommendable, like this rosé, typical of the appellation, from a vineyard facing the Montagne Noire. Mild spices on the nose, hints of red fruit, the whole is full of energy.

Lafage, Gallica 2022, côtes-du-roussillon The name of this rosé comes from the very fragrant rose variety found in the gardens of Mas Miraflors. This is the model Roussillon rosé, with an incomparable saline and mineral dimension that makes it very drinkable as an aperitif or at the table. This estate has solid ambitions. It deserves to be followed closely.

Jonquères d’Oriola, Château de Corneilla, Cavalcade 2022, côtes-du-roussillon The twenty-seventh generation of the family to head these vineyards, William Jonquères d’Oriola continues to forge ahead with his original wines. We love the fine balance and refinement of this fresh, slender Cavalcade, which goes well with seafood dishes.

Gérard Bertrand, Art de Vivre 2022, Languedoc Gérard Bertrand is a meticulous and demanding winegrower who is constantly on the lookout for innovation. There’s no doubt that this natural earth bottle, reminiscent of the first amphorae, will make an impact. Fresh and delicious, with fruity and floral notes, this wine will go well with Mediterranean cuisine.

Domaine Paul Mas, Jardin de Roses 2022, Languedoc A winegrower’s son who became an entrepreneur at an early age, Jean-Claude Mas has built up a heritage of over 800 hectares of vines and created brands that are recognised the world over. Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault are vinified separately to produce this fine, subtle rosé with floral notes. Gourmet palate, good length, angelic price.

Cave de Roquebrun, Lune de Schiste 2022, IGP pays-d’oc A gold medal winner, this round rosé is the perfect accompaniment to sunny days. At this price, you can buy it by the case.

ELSEWHERE

Mouton-Cadet, rosé 2022, Bordeaux Well, well, for the past few vintages, every summer issue of En Magnum has featured a new Bordeaux rosé from a well-known brand. And with it, its share of preconceptions on the part of some of our readers. Allow us to dismiss them (kindly) out of hand. With its impeccable winemaking, precise fruit and delicious balance, this is a rosé aperitif that does not disappoint.

Château de la Grille, rosé 2022, Chinon Christophe Baudry and Jean-Martin Dutour are taking their Loire properties in the right direction. At Château de la Grille, the best terroirs in Chinon are at their disposal to produce wines full of personality. It’s rare to find Cabernet Franc rosés with such elegance. This one is already in a different league, especially at this price.

Yves Leccia, YL rosé 2022, IGP île-de-beauté This Corsican estate, one of the most renowned on the island, maintains year after year the high overall quality of its production, combining precision and rigour. This 100% organic niellucciu unfolds its fruity notes with great delicacy. On the palate, it feels like a caress, with a peony finish. Worth discovering.

Domaine des Pothiers, Eclipse 2022, IGP urfé Romain Paire is one of the winemakers fighting for recognition of the volcanic terroirs of the Côte Roannaise. His Saint-Romain Gamay is capable of anything, but above all of surprising. The result is an original, fruity, easily digestible bubbly that will liven up an aperitif or accompany a dessert.

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