Champagne Telmont, good land good wine. In Champagne, going organic is a considerable risk. Yet this is the path taken by Telmont and its president, Ludovic du Plessis. Their guiding principles are creativity and respect for the consumer.
How did your story with Champagne begin?
I started my career in the world of cigars. It allowed me to discover the world of champagne during a tasting of a Trinidad cigar paired with a Dom Pérignon cuvée. Richard Geoffroy, the cellar master at the time, was present for this event. I fell in love with the man and his vision. Having resigned to work with him, three months later I became the company’s marketing manager for France. I worked there for ten years, including five in the United States. I was then offered the opportunity to work with Rémi Cointreau’s Louis XIII cognac. After a few years there, the desire to return to champagne caught up with me.
Why Telmont?
In 2019, I wanted to become an entrepreneur myself and was looking to buy a champagne house. But not just any champagne house – the project had to meet four essential criteria. First, it had to have a history. Telmont was founded in 1912 following the 1911 revolution of small Champagne winegrowers. Next, I wanted a family business, a company marked by a family heritage. Bertrand Lhopital, my partner at Telmont, is the representative of the fourth generation of the family that founded this estate. It also had to produce very good wines, and I was immediately won over by Telmont’s light bubbles and mineral style. Finally, I was looking for a house in the process of converting to organic farming, to give meaning to my project. This was virtually impossible in a context where only 5% of Champagne’s vineyards were certified organic at the time.
How was this project structured?
I convinced Bertrand to join me, then I presented the project to Rémy Cointreau, who was immediately won over, especially by our determination not to compromise on environmental issues. So, at the beginning of 2020, there were three shareholders, including Rémy Cointreau, who was the majority shareholder. In 2022, I asked my friend Leonardo DiCaprio, whom I met fifteen years ago in Los Angeles, to join the project. Our discussions on environmental issues have always been very interesting; in fact, he was the one who introduced me to the subject. It seemed obvious to me to talk to him about Telmont, as he has become one of the most influential figures on the subject of global warming through his Rewild foundation, which raises millions. He embraced the project and became the fourth partner.
Some people saw this partnership with the Hollywood star as a publicity stunt. Was that the case?
Absolutely not. Telmont is anything but celebrity champagne. Leonardo is not the face of the brand, he is an investor, and his commitment to the climate makes sense to us. But none of that matters if the wine isn’t good. And Telmont, for me, is one of the best champagnes in the world . I can say that after spending ten years at Dom Pérignon.
How would you define the Telmont style?
They are very lightly dosed champagnes, with beautiful tension, yet full-bodied. This is thanks to our choice to favour Chardonnay for its minerality and Meunier for its fruitiness, incorporating a little Pinot Noir, mainly from premier crus, to give depth and breadth. The bubbles are extremely delicate, giving the wine an airy lightness. We also extend the ageing period to a minimum of three years to achieve a delicious flavour without over-dosage. I am particularly proud of our Réserve de la Terre cuvée, which is certified organic. The approach is quite similar to that used for our classic brut, with a majority of Pinot Meunier in the blend and a search for high-quality terroirs, particularly in Damery, the house’s historic stronghold. This wine is lively, bright and energetic. I call it the happy wine, and for me it represents the future of Telmont. Last year, we produced around 65,000 bottles and more than 200,000 this year.
The conversion to organic farming is therefore already well underway. Where are you at?
Telmont’s 26 hectares are already certified or in conversion. We work with partners on around 65 hectares spread across different terroirs in Champagne, many of whom have joined us in this project. Of this total of 92 hectares, we can now say that nearly 70% are in the process of being certified and only 30% remain conventional. In terms of our cuvées, out of a total of 650,000 bottles, more than half are now organic. In fact, it’s a little more than that. We have decided to discontinue gift boxes, to stop using transparent bottles in favour of 100% recyclable green bottles, made from 85% recycled glass, which are lighter than traditional Champagne bottles, to source all our energy from renewable sources and to switch to greener shipping methods.
“Champagne Telmont, good land good wineThe wine is good if the land is good.”
Some people may see this as a form of greenwashing. How would you respond to that?
That the challenge is to take concrete action, without compromise. We want to reduce our carbon footprint by 90% by 2030. It starts with the soil. Above all, we are committed to respecting biodiversity, which necessarily means going completely organic. We are in favour of regenerative agriculture, but also of “organic” viticulture. The two are linked. As for our bottles and packaging, I believe it is our duty to lead the way. If the big names don’t set an example, no one else will dare to do so. We are the most committed company in terms of environmental action, and I don’t think this commitment is incompatible with producing a certain volume. It’s just a matter of using common sense.
You believe it is urgent to address these issues.
No action is too small. Some may seem insignificant, but they are not, especially when you produce large quantities. As a luxury brand, we have a duty to be environmentally irreproachable. It is our mission to anticipate our responsibilities in order to meet all these challenges. We are not only seeking to reduce our carbon footprint, we want to radically change the essence of our approach. In this respect, we cannot be accused of greenwashing.
The post-pandemic effect is being felt on champagne sales. How is Telmont faring?
Thanks to the repositioning of our brand, we are fortunate to be able to weather this downturn without being too badly affected. We have seen double-digit growth for the past three years. While 70% of our sales were in France a few years ago, we now export 90% of our production. As we are atypical in the champagne market, our message resonates abroad, particularly in Japan and the United States, countries with high demand for high value-added champagnes.
What is your role within the company?
I am one of its ambassadors. My real asset is my ability to bring people together. I try to instil positive energy and ensure that it is shared by all our employees. In fact, I started the Telmont collective, which brings together artisans, entrepreneurs and chefs around a shared sensitivity “in the name of the Earth”. This collective is like our grapes: it’s organic. There are no contracts or contributions required. We simply want to share our experiences and positive vibes. We meet once a year to discuss our respective issues and inspire each other. Once again, all this is possible if the wine is good. And the wine is good if the land is beautiful – it’s a virtuous circle.
photos by Céline Bregand
